![]() You have two parts, the “tongue” that will mate with the groove on the stile and the “cope” that will fit the contour of the inner edge of the stile. This helps eliminate blowout that can occur as the router bit exits the cut. A small scrap of wood can also be used to “back up” the cut between the work piece and the stationary fence. The woodworker holds the guide against the fence and from right to left smoothly guides the work piece across the router bit. You can see here the coping sled in action. The guide ensures that the work piece maintains the correct distance from the bit while making the coping cut. The base is 10″x 12″, the stationary fence is 3″ x 10″ and the sliding fence is 2″x10″.Ī good sled will also have two handles allowing the operator to safely move the sled and a “guide”, usually made of clear plastic that provides a straight edge to reference against the router table fence. Then there is a “sliding” fence on the left hand side that can lock in place to clamp the work piece horizontally and a clamp to hold the work piece down vertically. This fence should be squared to the sled/router table fence. The basic anatomy of a coping sled is as follows: A base or “sled” for the work piece to ride on across the router bit, a stationary fence on the right hand side to provide sturdy support for the work piece. Start with a lower grit and gradually work your way up to higher grits to eliminate cutting marks and achieve the desired finish.The coping sled has but one purpose but it’s an important one! Helping the woodworker make a cut across the end grain (short end) of a work piece to create a joint that allows you to build frame and panel (also called rail and stile) doors.This is a precarious cut at best and without support to back up the cut, you can easily hurt yourself or at the very least ruin your work piece.
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